Gnarly Barrel

“Dude. I got rolled by a gnarly barrel.” These are the words that came out of Ryan’s mouth after one week of surf camp.  And Casey cried her eyes out the afternoon of the last day. Needless to say, they both loved it.  And I loved watching them in it. I stayed the first day because Ryan gets nervous for every new thing and needs a little bit of security. And in truth, I wanted to stay. I brought my camera and a beach chair. I’m also fairly certain there was a bit of divine intervention from above because I inadvertently forgot my phone. I had nothing to do but sit, observe, photograph and enjoy. It was a beautiful two hours. 

I was aware that this was a camp for them and I tried not to be a hovering Mom so I sat back as much as possible. But it was really cool to watch both of them take on something they’ve never done before and even if they had to pretend at first, do so fearlessly. And it is hard. Just getting out past the crashing waves with a surfboard in hand, is exhausting. They certainly had help from a great group of instructors but add the popping up and trying to ride the waves for roughly two hours, and they were wrecked every afternoon. I watched them eat it many times, as well. But get back on, even when other kids bailed.

I avoided it for the next 3 days, letting them do this on their own and loving being able to get back to a couple of yoga classes and visit the grocery store alone.  But Henny came back Thursday night and we went together on Friday to watch them again. They were both catching waves, riding them in and forming friendships along the way. It was so great to see. 

Now, of course, the little guy is asking for a surfboard.  I knew that was coming. And I think we’ll hold off for now. Perhaps a rental is in our future. 

Thank you Avalon Surf Camp for providing a great time and great instructors for the week. I felt safe leaving the kids in their hands and my kids miss them already. I took lots of pictures but the memories in my mind may have been enough.